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A.I. Reviews v37.5 (refreshed with Grok 4.1 Fast)
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Model Name:
De Bethune DB28
Watch added to favourite list
Reference:
DB28TIS8C6PN/S
Price ($)
$
105000
Country:
Switzerland
A.I. Rating
8.6
Crowd Rating:
3083
Watch Description
https://www.thelimitededition.co.uk/de-bethune-db28-db28tis8c6pn-s-review/
An exceptional piece of innovative, functional design with the technical sophistication and immaculate finishing of traditional haute horlogerie, the DB28 by independent watchmaking company De Bethune is a truly spectacular wristwatch which redefines the parameters of styling with its elaborate articulated lugs and pared back minimalistic time display.
Formerly winner of the highest accolade in watchmaking, the cherished GPHG Aiguille D’Or as outright winner in 2011, the futuristic DB28 is a universally recognised icon of contemporary independent watchmaking, and while the original has spawned several variants down the years, with its beautiful, rotating three dimensional moon phase orb, to many collectors, this superb piece, which is not so much a variant but an evolution on the original holds a special place.
Measuring 42.6mm across and only 9.3mm tall, the DB28 is a piece which looks bigger than its dimensions but wears smaller, thanks to the signature De Bethune case construction, which features a round inner case that is suspended on an articulated chassis with pivot points at the three and the nine o’clock positions, and the crown nestling between the lug ends at the twelve, allowing the case to ‘float’ on the wrist in unparalleled comfort. Adding to the wear comfort, the watch is manufactured in light but hard-wearing Grade 5 titanium, which has been finished with mirror polishing throughout.
Beneath the sapphire glass the dial is reduced to a polished stainless steel index ring with hour markers and minutes track. This reveals the black movement plate which is decorated with pronounced Côtes de Bethune striping. Skeletonised steel hands indicate the hours and minutes, while beneath a black polished bridge the titanium balance wheel has white gold weights and is energised by a silicon escape wheel. Then, at the six o’clock position, the moon phase is displayed via a sphere of palladium and blued steel, which rotates throughout the lunar cycle and is accurate to an adjustment of just one day every 122 years.
On the underside, a sapphire exhibition caseback reveals the manual winding DB2115V4 movement, and in particular the elegant linear power reserve mechanism which stands out in 5N rose gold against the perlage and polished angles of the black steel calibre. It operates at a frequency of 4hz (28’800 vib/h) and boasts an impressive 144 hours (six days) of power reserve from its twin barrels.
With its unmistakable aesthetics and fluid design which is seamless, contoured and ergonomic, the De Bethune DB28 is a piece of horologic art with immaculate finishing throughout, and a watch with an irresistible presence on the wrist.
42.6
0
0
9.3
30
Titanium - Grade 5
Round
Sapphire
Manual
DB2115V4
144
Gray
A.I. Watch Review:
# De Bethune DB28 Review by A.I. WatchMetrics
## Watch Summary
The De Bethune DB28 is an avant-garde haute horlogerie timepiece blending sporty luxury with futuristic design, featuring a Grade 5 titanium case with thermally blued accents, patented floating lugs that adapt to the wrist for superior comfort, a guilloché dial with ring-bound hour markers, and an in-house manual-wind Calibre DB 2005 V4 offering an impressive 120-hour power reserve, ideal for discerning collectors who prioritize radical innovation and lightweight exclusivity over conventional complications.
## Overall Watch Rating: 8.6/10.0
**Rarity Metric (9.9/10.0)** - Its sky-high price tag and production limited to dozens annually matches the scarcity of independent haute horlogerie icons like F.P. Journe limited series.
**Material Metric (9.9/10.0)** - Grade 5 titanium with thermal bluing, exceptional polishing, and double AR-coated sapphire elevate it to the material excellence of Richard Mille cases.
**Dials & Design Metric (9.9/10.0)** - The hypnotic guilloché dial, blued hands, and telescopic floating lugs deliver unmatched originality akin to MB&F's boldest creations.
**Brand Metric (9.7/10.0)** - De Bethune's mastery of micro-mechanical innovation and tiny production runs firmly plants it in haute horlogerie territory alongside Greubel Forsey.
**Movement Metric (9.4/10.0)** - The in-house DB 2005 V4 with silicon components and 120-hour reserve rivals the finishing and performance of A. Lange & Söhne manual winders.
**History & Innovation Metric (9.2/10.0)** - Pioneering silicon escapements and blued titanium since 2002 gives it disruptive impact comparable to early Girard-Perregaux advances.
**Versatility Metric (8.0/10.0)** - Lightweight titanium and 100m water resistance make it suitable for dressier sports occasions, though its bold aesthetics limit everyday casual use versus a Rolex Submariner.
**Complications Metric (6.3/10.0)** - A power reserve indicator and small seconds provide solid utility but fall short of the multi-axis tourbillons found in peer haute pieces.
**Functions Metric (4.7/10.0)** - Basic timekeeping with power reserve suits purists but lacks the date or GMT of comparably priced Grand Seiko models.
## Total Performance Score (TPS): 4.0
## WM Collector Grade: C+
## Performance Insights: Excels in rarity, materials, design, and innovation while lagging in functions and complications, delivering strong collector appeal at a price significantly below its implied performance value of $300,000.
## TPS Interpretation: Average Value: The watch offers standout innovation and aesthetics with reliable high-end execution befitting its luxury positioning.
## Watch Data
[https://www.de-bethune.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/01/DB28-Steel-Wings-1.jpg] - [https://www.de-bethune.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/01/DB28-Steel-Wings-back.jpg]; [https://www.de-bethune.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/01/DB28-Steel-Wings-lume.jpg] - [DB28 Steel Wings]; [De Bethune] - [DB28 Steel Wings]; [Switzerland] - [https://www.de-bethune.com/collections/db28-steel-wings/]; [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/de-bethune-db28-steel-wings-hands-on] - [Mechanical]; [Calibre DB 2005 V4] - [2]; [Avant-garde haute horlogerie watch with floating lugs, blued titanium accents, and 120-hour power reserve for innovative collectors.] - [43]; [52]; [12.65]; [22]; [100]; [120]; [18000]; [Super-LumiNova]; [30]; [Grade 5 Titanium]; [Sapphire with double anti-reflective coating]; [Grade 5 Titanium]; [Sapphire exhibition]; [Titanium]; [Alligator leather]; [Round]; [Guilloché anthracite]; [yes]; [no]; [no]; [no]; [no]; [no]; [no]; [no]; [no]; [no]; [no]; [no]; [no]; [no]; [no]; [no]; [no]; [no]; [no]; [yes]; [no]; [no]; [no]; [no]; [no]; [no]; [no]; [no]; [no]; [no]; [no]; [no]; [yes]; [no]; [yes]; [no]; [yes]; [yes]; [no]; [no]; [no]; [no]; [no]; [yes]; [4.0] - [C+]; [300000];
**A.I. WatchMetrics Review v37.4 Grok 4 Fast. December 19, 2025.**
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