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v7.3 (A.I. Watch & Collection Reviews)
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3 - Grand Seiko / Grand Seiko / Grand Seiko - 202411241244
Soilus
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Collector Description
My Complete (?) Grand Seiko Collection
From left to right:
SBGM235, the rarer white version of the popular blue whirlpool dial, limited to 1,000 pieces, nicknamed the “Kiku” and my caller GMT watch / dress watch in a pinch. Automatic movement, caliber 9S66 movement. On a midnight blue stingray leather strap.
SBGH267, the popular “Whirlpool” dial, limited to 1,500 pieces, my first Grand Seiko. Choosing my favorite of these three watches is hard, but honestly it’s this one (even though the Kiku gets more wrist time). Shout out to my local watch expert u/Sushi_All-Day for getting me started on this whole journey – we talked about this watch so much that I couldn’t stop thinking about it and ended up getting it instead of the Shunbun or Snowflake or Omiwatari as my entry into Grand Seiko. Hi-beat movement, caliber 9S85. On a brown/tobacco crocodile leather strap (which originally came with the next watch on this list).
SBGY035, the new red version of the Shunbun dial, nicknamed “Karasawa” and limited to 700 pieces. Honestly one of the most dramatic and iconic dress watches I’ve ever seen, especially because the color makes it much more divisive than, say, a white or blue dress watch. I jumped on this as soon as I saw it released earlier this year – I wanted a red dial watch for my collection, I needed a true dress watch, and my birthday is right around when this came out. This was a birthday present to myself this year. Manual spring drive, caliber 9R31 movement. On a black ostrich shin leather strap. My autumn watch.
With that I think my Grand Seiko collection may be complete (though I’m open to temptations). Automatic, hi-beat, and spring drive. White, blue, red. A GMT, a daily blue dial watch, and a dramatic red dress watch. I’ve loved this journey so much, what an amazing watch brand, and of course I’ll get another if/when I visit Japan again.
A.I. Watch Collection Review
9.4
Grand Seiko Kiku SBGM235 LE-1000 / Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 20th Anniversary SBGH267 LE-1500 / Grand Seiko Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Karasawa SBGY035 LE-700
A.I. WatchMetrics Collection Review v.7.3
Overall Collection Rating: 9.4/10
This collection of limited-edition Grand Seiko timepieces epitomizes precision craftsmanship, thoughtful design, and technical sophistication. Featuring exclusive releases like the Kiku SBGM235, SBGH267, and SBGY035, this selection reflects a keen appreciation for Japanese artistry and innovation. The collector demonstrates a focused and refined taste for Grand Seiko's heritage and engineering milestones.
Breakdown by Watch Collection Metrics
Brand (11.1%): 9.8/10
Grand Seiko holds a top-tier reputation in horology, consistently delivering both exceptional craftsmanship and technical innovation. This collection reflects the pinnacle of the brand's offerings through its limited-edition models.
History & Innovation (11.1%): 9.7/10
Each watch represents significant milestones in Grand Seiko’s history, from the celebration of its 20th anniversaries for the Hi-Beat and Spring Drive calibers to the artistry of the Kiku's GMT complication.
Rarity (11.1%): 9.5/10
These limited-edition models, capped at production numbers ranging from 700 to 1500, are highly sought after. The exclusivity of these timepieces enhances their appeal among collectors.
Material (11.1%): 9.4/10
Crafted with premium materials like Zaratsu-polished stainless steel, titanium, and precious metal accents, the collection demonstrates superior attention to detail and durability.
Movement (11.1%): 9.8/10
Showcasing hallmark Grand Seiko calibers such as the Hi-Beat 9S85, Spring Drive 9R, and 9S66 GMT, the collection excels in technical prowess. These movements combine accuracy, power reserve, and innovation, exemplifying the brand's mastery.
Versatility (11.1%): 8.5/10
While these watches offer a blend of casual and formal utility, their distinct limited-edition nature leans more towards collection and appreciation than daily wear.
Complications (11.1%): 9.3/10
Features include GMT functionality, power reserve indicators, and a high-frequency chronometer-grade movement, offering practical and horologically significant complications.
Functions (11.1%): 9.6/10
Each model boasts impressive functionality, with precise timekeeping, solid water resistance, and durable construction, ensuring utility alongside elegance.
Dials & Design (11.1%): 9.9/10
The standout dials—featuring the Kiku's intricate pattern inspired by Japanese art, the radial texture of the Hi-Beat SBGH267, and the Karasawa's rich red—embody Grand Seiko’s unparalleled craftsmanship.
Cohesiveness (11.1%): 9.5/10
The collection is thematically united by its focus on limited editions and Grand Seiko's core aesthetic principles, creating a harmonious and purposeful selection.
Collection Strengths and Potential Improvements
Strengths:
High-quality, innovative movements across all pieces.
Limited-edition exclusivity enhances collector value.
Diverse yet harmonious dials reflecting Japanese culture and artistry.
Potential Improvements:
Incorporating a more versatile timepiece with less exclusivity could allow for frequent wear without concern for rarity.
Expanding into other Grand Seiko collections, such as Elegance or Evolution 9, could add further depth.
Watch-by-Watch Summary
Grand Seiko Kiku SBGM235 LE-1000Overall Rating: 9.3/10
Standout Features: GMT functionality, intricate dial inspired by the Japanese Kiku flower, powered by the 9S66 caliber with 72-hour power reserve.
Style: Dress with GMT; highly collectible.
Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 20th Anniversary SBGH267 LE-1500Overall Rating: 9.6/10
Standout Features: Hi-Beat 9S85 caliber with a frequency of 36,000 vph, stunning blue radial-patterned dial.
Style: Formal with a technical edge.
Grand Seiko Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Karasawa SBGY035 LE-700Overall Rating: 9.4/10
Standout Features: Spring Drive 9R31 caliber, deep red Karasawa lacquer-inspired dial, exceptional finishing.
Style: Elegant dress watch with cultural significance.
Footnote: A.I. WatchMetrics Review v.7.3