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v7.3 (A.I. Watch & Collection Reviews)
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8 - Orient / Orient / Knot / Baume & Mercier / Kuoe / Grand Seiko / Nomos / Mondaine - 202411142344
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Collector:
Collector Description
Just got back from a two-week long vacation to Japan and went a bit overboard with my watch purchases. I knew going into the trip that I'd be picking up at least a couple pieces but I did not expect to come home with eight new pieces!
For those enthusiasts planning a Japan trip, BIC camera is definitely appropriately praised (I had the best luck in Ginza where I found the gorgeous Orient Star duo). Kyoto's Kuoe was also a pleasant surprise. I visited initially planning to just see what it's about but was blown away by the bronze old smith and was sold with the store-only blue dial iteration. Knot got me in a similar manner with both the Salmon Dial Tonneau and Yokohama LE Square pieces being boutique only (and quite hard to find at that).
The absolute pinnacle of my visit however, was none other than the infamous Nakano Broadway which definitely lived up to the hype. I got a bit carried away here spending half a day just walking the countless used watch stores. I ended up picking up the coveted SBGP007, a Mondaine Stop2Go (super random find), and a solid gold 18K Baume & Mercier on a handmade Japanese Alligator strap.
Overall, I'm very happy with this haul. I'll likely need to sell a couple of these as, in retrospect, I purchased too many pieces early in the trip out of excitement. A few of these however are absolute keepers. The Kuoe and Knot pieces are all engraved and the GS is one I've wanted for some time now. I think I'll be taking it easy on collecting for a while!
A.I. Watch Collection Review
8.6
**8-Watch Collection Review – Orient (25%) / Knot (12.5%) / Baume & Mercier (12.5%) / Kuoe (12.5%) / Grand Seiko (12.5%) / Nomos (12.5%) / Mondaine (12.5%)**
### **Overall Collection Rating: 8.6/10.0**
This collection showcases an intriguing mix of dress and minimalist designs, ranging from accessible Japanese timepieces to luxury pieces with modern and Bauhaus influences. The collector demonstrates a strong affinity for slim, elegant watches with refined aesthetics and high-quality craftsmanship.
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### **Collection Type by Style:**
- **Dress (75%)**: Orient Classic Heritage Gothic, Baume & Mercier Classic 18k Thin, Knot Tonneau, Kuoe Old Smith, Grand Seiko Heritage SBGP007, Nomos Tetra Neomatik
- **Minimalist (25%)**: Mondaine Evo2, Nomos Tetra Neomatik
### **Collection Type by Movement:**
- **Quartz (50%)**: Grand Seiko Heritage SBGP007, Mondaine Evo2, Orient Classic Heritage Gothic
- **Automatic (37.5%)**: Kuoe Old Smith Bronze, Nomos Tetra Neomatik, Baume & Mercier Classic 18k Thin
- **Manual (12.5%)**: Knot Tonneau
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### **Breakdown by Watch Collection Metrics:**
#### **Brand (8.8/10 - Weight: 11.1%)**
The collection features a strong variety of respected brands, from the modern appeal of Nomos and Grand Seiko to more boutique choices like Kuoe and Knot. However, there is room to include higher-end or more recognized luxury names to elevate this metric.
#### **History & Innovation (8.5/10 - Weight: 11.1%)**
With Grand Seiko’s precision quartz and Nomos’ in-house DUW 3001 movement, the collection balances heritage and contemporary innovation. Japanese and German craftsmanship anchor the narrative, but the collection could benefit from more historically significant models.
#### **Rarity (8.4/10 - Weight: 11.1%)**
Limited editions like the Grand Seiko SBGP007 and unique models like the Nomos Tetra Neomatik add exclusivity. However, the more widely available Knot and Orient pieces lower the average rarity score.
#### **Material (8.7/10 - Weight: 11.1%)**
With cases ranging from bronze (Kuoe) to 18k gold (Baume & Mercier), the collection features premium materials alongside durable stainless steel. The material depth is strong, though the collection could expand with exotic materials like ceramic or titanium.
#### **Movement (8.6/10 - Weight: 11.1%)**
In-house movements (Grand Seiko, Nomos) and a reliable mix of quartz, automatic, and manual calibers showcase movement diversity. A more significant presence of advanced mechanical complications would further improve this metric.
#### **Versatility (8.4/10 - Weight: 11.1%)**
The collection leans heavily toward dress and minimalist watches, limiting versatility for sport or casual scenarios. Adding a robust tool watch or sporty model could enhance practical adaptability.
#### **Complications (7.8/10 - Weight: 11.1%)**
Time-only watches dominate, with minimal complications across the collection. While this simplicity aligns with the collector’s aesthetic preferences, incorporating more complications like chronographs or dual time zones could add depth.
#### **Functions (8.3/10 - Weight: 11.1%)**
The Grand Seiko’s precision and durability enhance this score, but most models focus on aesthetics over rugged functionality. Improvements like water resistance or lume could boost functionality for everyday use.
#### **Dials & Design (9.0/10 - Weight: 11.1%)**
The collection’s dials are its strength, with a cohesive emphasis on unique, elegant designs. The midnight blue dial of the Nomos, the sector-style Baume & Mercier, and the Mondaine’s iconic design elevate the score.
#### **Cohesiveness (8.7/10 - Weight: 11.1%)**
The collection follows a clear theme of refined, elegant timepieces with minimalist and dress styles. While cohesive, incorporating a broader stylistic range could create a more dynamic collection.
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### **Collection Strengths:**
- A strong focus on elegant and minimalist designs with unique dials and cases.
- Impressive material diversity, including bronze and 18k gold.
- Brands like Grand Seiko and Nomos provide a strong anchor of craftsmanship and innovation.
### **Potential Areas for Improvement:**
- Add a sportier or tool watch for increased versatility and functionality.
- Introduce models with more advanced complications (e.g., chronographs, GMTs).
- Incorporate additional historically significant brands to deepen the narrative.
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### **Watch-by-Watch Summary:**
1. **Orient Classic Heritage Gothic RE-AW0003S** (8.1/10)
- A vintage-inspired dress watch with a textured dial and quartz reliability.
2. **Knot Tonneau CT-27RGWH** (8.4/10)
- A sleek manual-wind tonneau with a minimalist Japanese aesthetic.
3. **Baume & Mercier Classic 18k Thin MV045088** (8.9/10)
- Slim, elegant, and crafted in gold, this is a refined dress piece for formal occasions.
4. **Kuoe Old Smith Bronze Case Black Dial 90-002** (8.7/10)
- A vintage-style bronze-cased watch with strong character and wearability.
5. **Grand Seiko Heritage SBGP007 LE-2500** (9.0/10)
- A precision quartz watch with Grand Seiko’s signature finishing and exclusivity.
6. **Nomos Tetra Neomatik 39 Midnight Blue** (8.9/10)
- A Bauhaus-inspired square watch with in-house movement and a stunning midnight blue dial.
7. **Mondaine Evo2** (8.5/10)
- Iconic minimalist design with excellent legibility, ideal for casual wear.
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*Footnote: A.I. WatchMetrics Review v.7.3*